Holi in Varanasi: Rang Barse, Sadhus, and Bonfires on the Ganga

Five days before the main Holi, Varanasi celebrates Rangbhari Ekadashi — the day Lord Shiva is said to have played Holi with his ganas (attendants) after returning to Kashi with his new bride Parvati. On this day, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple holds a special puja and colour celebration.

Masan Holi takes place two days before the main Holi at the cremation ghats — particularly at Manikarnika. On this day, the sadhus and Aghori ascetics who inhabit the cremation ground celebrate Holi in their own way — using ash from the funeral pyres (vibhuti, sacred ash in the Shaiva tradition) instead of coloured powder. It is one of the most unusual and striking celebrations anywhere in India.

Masan Holi is difficult to access for ordinary tourists — the area is dense, the crowd is intensely devotional rather than touristic, and appropriate respectful behaviour is essential. A Spirit of Kashi guide who knows the community can arrange a respectful observation.

On the morning of the main Holi day, Assi Ghat hosts the largest public Holi celebration in Varanasi — the Rang Barse gathering. By sunrise, the ghat is packed with locals and visitors, sadhus and students, young and old, all playing with colour powder and water.

The characteristic Varanasi Holi includes enthusiastic (sometimes very enthusiastic) colour-throwing, bhang thandai shared freely, folk songs and devotional singing (particularly the Hori songs — a specific form of devotional Holi song associated with Braj and Varanasi), and a general atmosphere of abandon. The sadhus joining the celebration at Assi — dancing, smeared in colour, utterly unconcerned with dignity — are one of the festival's iconic images.

Protect your camera and phone: colour powder and water will penetrate any case. Wear old clothes that you do not mind destroying. Bring minimal valuables.